Cutting out Butterick 5399 - only a couple of pattern alterations that I can see. This jacket is quite short, it seems even shorter than the photo shows. I am a short woman and this jacket's finished back length is only 27" which just covers my derriere. Also the pattern does not allow for a hem on the jacket, the lining is stitched to the bottom edge at the usual seam allowance and turned. This would be fine in a lightweight fabric, such as a poplin, but I would worry that the lining would stretch and droop below the hem with any wear.
So I lengthened the pattern front and back by 2" and also allowed for a hem of 1 3/4". These are the only alterations I made; I cut size 18 as the finished bust circumference is 49 1/2", and I would like to be able to wear a sweater or jacket under this. It would be easy to take in if necessary, as the underarm and side seams are sewn continuously and can be checked during sewing to see if this is too big. But I would prefer a generous fit rather than a tight one, as in this winter weather, one wants the option of multiple layers.
I dug out my ancient Vogue Sewing book, a gift to me in 1982, to double check on using hair canvas. I had forgotten whether to sew it to the facing or to the coat, and whether to stitch it to the upper or under collar. Found both answers, trim the seam allowance away and cross stitch it to the outer layer of the coat, and to the undercollar, not the top collar as I would have thought. I will also cut it on the bias grain for the collar so that it will circle nicely around the neck. Will also stitch bias strips of hair canvas to the hem of the coat body and sleeves.
Next step - handstitching the hair canvas.
