Sunday, March 22, 2015

Current Projects


I have been working on getting a tried-and-true basic dress using this pattern.



The pattern is Butterick 6186, a pattern by Connie Crawford. It is a princess-seamed dress with the seam coming from the armhole rather than the shoulder. It has a back zipper, but I imagine if you used a knit fabric, you could eliminate the zip.

I sewed this in a cotton batik fabric from my stash, figuring that if it worked, it would be a wearable muslin. But I'm not so sure about the fabric, it's a bit loud for my usual taste. Perhaps on a summer day with the grandkids, I could wear this, I don't think I would wear it anywhere else.

My first impression was that the fit was pretty good, letting in or letting out the side seams, taking in the princess seam above the bust to eliminate the armhole gaping. Of course, one alteration affects another area and fiddling with the armscye resulted in having a sleeve that was too large. It will have to be reduced in the next version; for this one, I simply made a pleat at the top of the sleeve and called it a design detail.

But one, or rather two, issues have me puzzled. The shoulder seam is not straight on me. I have noticed this before in other patterns, and years ago in a couture sewing class, this was pointed out. So it is an issue I have always had, it hasn't come about through too much time leaning over a computer or sewing machine.

Last night, I dug out three fitting books to sort this out. Sandra Betzina's Fast Fit doesn't talk about this at all. The Singer Fit book mentions it, but doesn't really tackle it well. However, I did find it covered in detail in Pati Palmer's Fit for Real People. It comes along with another issue, a high rounded back.

I had no idea that this was a problem, but sure enough in this muslin dress, the back zip stands away from my body in the top 4". Just like the pictures in Pati's book. She says to correct this issue first as it will affect the shoulder seam. She also says that people with this problem often feel as if their blouses and dresses are pulling to the back and collars of shirts seem to choke them. Yes, I have to admit I have that problem.

So this will require another muslin, making that alteration and then redrawing the shoulder seam. Funny the things you learn about yourself when doing basic fitting. I didn't know I had a forward leaning head, but I guess I do.

I will try to take a picture of the problem, perhaps someone who reads this can suggest a fix.

This minor blip calls for doing something simple and straight forward. So let's bring on a dress for grand-daughter Hannah who will be turning 11 next month. She is a slender girl, perhaps a little shorter than the average, so I will cut between the lines of the size 10 and 12 to make her a size 11.

I had bought this fabric last year to make a shirt-dress for myself, but didn't get around to it. I found the bag last week, with pattern, thread and even buttons for the dress. There is enough fabric to make Hannah a dress and a matching dress for her baby sister Sarah who will soon be 3.

 
 
So simple sewing of a pretty sun-dress for Hannah, and a second muslin of the Butterick pattern. Inspired by Carolyn of  http://sewingfantaticdiary.blogspot.ca/, I want to have a basic dress pattern that can be used by itself or to compare the fit of other patterns.
 
 
 
 
 
 


Saturday, March 7, 2015

Kwik Sew 2849


 
This afternoon, I did the final tasks on this shirt, the hem and sewed on the buttons. This was a pleasure to sew. 100% cotton is the easiest fabric to sew and press. 
 
 
I used the collar technique that was illustrated on Tasia's blog at www.sewaholic.com
Previously, in my shirt-making, I have used Margaret Islander's technique of the "burrito" wrap on the collar. I found Tasia's method easier and it assures a better result as I think you are in more control of the process. 

 
 
This was the pattern that I used, Kwik Sew 2849, a pattern that was in the huge pattern stash. I don't know if this pattern is still in print, it probably is. Kwik Sew keep their patterns for a long time, as most of them are classic designs. I did switch the sleeve when I realised that the long sleeve did not have a cuff. I simply substituted a sleeve from another Kwik Sew pattern, blending the cutting lines into the sleeve from this pattern.
 
A satisfying sew. 

 
And I can blame Tasia and Amanda for enticing me with more shirt fabrics. These three came this week from Amanda's site, www.blackbirdfabrics.com.  They are lovely fine shirtings and I am looking forward to more shirts in the next few weeks. The first one might be a sun-dress for grand-daughter Hannah though. It is time I sewed something for her.
 
Instead of wearing knit tees all the time, I am going to switch it up to more cotton shirts this spring. My favourite fabrics, tiny prints, are all back in style. As an aging hippie-type, I am glad to see them.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

Saturday, February 21, 2015

Jeans - miles of topstitching


Most of my days are spent in casual clothes, so I figured I should take the time to make another pair of jeans. I made a pair last year from the pattern by Palmer/Pletsch McCalls 5894.

 
I am trying to use up fabric from my stash and I had everything for this in house. Natural coloured cotton twill, almost denim weight, poly thread for most of the stitching, nutmeg coloured upholstery thread for top-stitching, even zipper and button were here.
 
Jeans are a lot of work. I knew this pattern was already tweeked so fitting would be easy. But it always surprises you how a new fabric fits differently than the last, even though they are very similar in weight. So I will make a note on the pattern to raise the centre front waist 3/8" for the next pair.
 
I love top-stitching, but this did give me some problems. The upholstery thread is twisted of two plies and it tends to shred in the needle as you stitch. So thread breakage was a problem, combined with the fact that I had my needle inserted incorrectly to begin with. I sew on a semi-industrial machine that takes industrial needles. These have a groove in the needle shaft that must be inserted with the groove at the 7 o'clock position. This puts the eye of the needle ever so slightly to the left. It is easy to insert this incorrectly. But this time, I wasn't pushing the needle up far enough. Once I realised what the problem was, things got a lot better. Last Saturday afternoon, there was a lot of frustration over this.
 
 The coin pocket sitting behind the front slash pockets, edgestitched and top-stitched.

A real fly zipper with facing behind.
 

The stitching went a little wonky around the bottom of the zipper and I didn't
even try to bar-tack, I knew the thread would just split.
  
Back pocket stitched and edgestitched; regular thread in the bobbin case.
 
Finished jeans, with buttonhole and button the last things to do.
 

A tool I use all the time; a buttonhole chisel. I couldn't cut buttonholes without it now.
 

No selfies; just the jeans hanging from a newly organized bookshelf.
 
And a word about our weather. This is Teddy, our 14-year old Lab/Husky mix. He loves the snow, and we have plenty of it this year.
 
But enough already, we don't know where to put it. We have been getting snow, then rain, then freezing with the sidewalks slippery and very bumpy. The ice is 4-6" thick on the sidewalks. And today, Nick turned the car and hit the snowbank, with an ice block ripping out the parking light. Altogether, it is annoying. Try not to swear! 


 
After I finished sewing this afternoon, I noticed that my shoulders were all hunched up and tight from the stress of that final top-stitching. I will sew something easier next time. Inspired by all the shirts I am seeing on blogs, (especially on www.sewaholic.com and on www.lladybird.com   - scroll down to her floral shirt)  I have cut out a princess-seamed shirt from a cotton that was in the stash for probably ten years. I have to admit though that the email notice from www.blackbirdfabrics.com did make me relent on the resolve not to purchase more fabric. And I ordered three lengths of cotton shirtings as I feel a shirt-making session coming on.
 
No affiliation but I can recommend BlackBird Fabrics. She has some really lovely yardage and shipping is very quick and reasonably priced. Given the rate of postage now in Canada, I don't think I could have kept my business going; the shipping costs would have done me in. Glad to know that someone else is filling the gap here in the north.
 
Stash Count:  2 metres out, 3.5 metres ordered  -  so much for resolve!
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 



Monday, February 2, 2015

Jalie 2795


Another winter storm here on the east coast, so rather than going to aquacise, I went into the sewing room and finished up a hoodie.  The pattern is Jalie 2795 and the fabric is a micro fleece from my stash.  This is one of the Yukon fleeces that I used to sell by mail order and I had forgotten just how nice the micro fleece is.  It feels like velveteen and really doesn't pill like regular fleece.  This is lightweight and will be much like wearing a light sweater.



Everything was here at home for this hoodie, and I am sure I have some drawstrings somewhere. But I may just sew a length of the fleece to insert into the hood casing.



I have seen that some sewers keep track of the fabric they buy and what they sew up. I cannot begin to estimate how much fabric I have in my stash, it is too embarrassing to go there. Keep in mind that, after 9 years of selling fabric online, you wind up with a lot of pieces that you just can't resist, not to mention all the end cuts that just get put into the pile.

However, in January of this year, I bought 4 metres of fabric online (from www.blackbirdfabrics.com) and so far, I have sewed up 3.5 metres. Already I am losing the battle. I will try better next month.

And now to get through the next storm. And I thought somehow we might get to skip winter this year.








Tuesday, January 27, 2015

Sewaholic Renfrew Tee


Having bought this pattern about a year ago, I finally cut it out and sewed it up. Lots of good reviews for this pattern. My fabric is a single knit jersey, cotton and lycra blend. I am sewing from the stash, as I really need to downsize my fabric and pattern collection.



I found the neckline to be very well done. It lays nice and flat and the proportion of band to neckline is perfect.  My only quibble is that these patterns are drafted for a young body, and at my age, I find the neckline too low.  The skin on the upper chest doesn't have that youthful appearance any longer.  I finished the first version and then raised the neckline for a second one. 



In order to keep the proportion the same as the original pattern, I measured the neck seamline on the pattern, then measured the neck band, eliminating all seam allowances. I found the neck band was 2 1/2" shorter than the neck seamline.  So once I had redrawn the neck on the pattern (brought it about 1" higher on the front and about 1/2" higher at the center back, plus extended the shoulder line about 1/4" closer to the neck, I then simply took off the proportional difference on the band.  I think I may extend that shoulder seam a little more, to bring the neckline in closer before cutting out a second version.  It might be a good idea to compare it with  another pattern that has a higher neckline.

Tasia, the designer, has made this pattern for first-time sewers I think. She has added a bottom band and a sleeve band or cuff, so that you don't have to fiddle with top-stitching a hem, something that can make newbies to knits rather nervous.

I made the pattern as per directions, but on the next one, I will eliminate the bottom band and the cuffs, as I find this makes the tee look like a sweatshirt. I will simply make sure I have enough length and then turn up 1" and top-stitch in place.



This is in the queue for another time, as I now have plans to sew up a hoodie with some lovely micro fleece that I found in my stash. Even have the thread and zipper for this, so no need to head to the store to buy any notions.

The winter storm that has hit our city might have inspired the next project.





Monday, January 5, 2015

Knitting Progress





I began this sweater in March of 2013 and it has taken me this long to finish it.  From the picture in the magazine, I thought it was a fairly simple pattern. But once I began knitting, I found that I simply could not commit the pattern to memory, so I was forced to continually read the directions to make sure that I was doing it right. 

After finishing the back and fronts, I packed it away. I couldn't face two sleeves with the same pattern. But this fall, while recovering from a second hip replacement surgery, I bit the bullet and dug it out.  I was determined to finish it, as it really is lovely and the wool, the colour, the pattern were everything I would want in an aran cardigan. It took a long time to complete, but it was well worth it.

Knowing that it was going to be a snug fit for me, I finished it as a gift for a daughter. She doesn't know about it yet, and I will mail it to her this week with a bottle of Eucalan.  Along with strict orders on how to wash hand-knit sweaters. I have reservations about knitting for others, because people who don't knit or sew are not usually aware of the care that must be taken with certain items.  I will even offer to wash this for her whenever I visit, so that it will be last a long time.

The collar is really lovely, nice and high. It makes this sweater into a jacket really and it will probably be too warm to wear indoors.  Where she lives, the fall and spring weather will be perfect for this kind of sweater.

The pattern was from Knit Simple Winter 2012 and most of the patterns are simple, just not this one!


This is the sweater as pictured in the magazine. I will ask my daughter to send me a photo of her in the cardigan when she gets it. I am pretty sure it will fit her. I do hope she likes it. 

Monday, June 3, 2013

Apple Green Sweater


Long time no posts here, but that doesn't mean I haven't been sewing or knitting!  I completed this sweater about a month ago. It took me forever to knit this, and I know where the mistakes are. But I figured that no one but me would know they were there, and I found this pattern so much work that there was no way I could bring myself to undo a few inches to correct the mistake once I spotted it.

One thing wrong with this pattern, there are no instructions for buttonholes and the designer says to simply slip the buttons through the spaces in the right front.  But the spaces are not big enough. So these buttons are purely decorative. I might sew some snaps behind them if I wish to close the sweater.

This pattern is really good. I love the look of the cables with the seed stitch inside the cables. Seed stitch everywhere, even in the ribbing. And for once, my tension must have been spot on, because this fits perfectly. I often don't have that kind of success with my knitting. In fact, the next sweater cast on is definitely too small and I think it might be a present for my daughter who would love to have an Aran cardigan.

The pattern is Plaits and Links by Kathy Zimmerman and you can read about it at this link on Ravelry. I knit it with my favourite yarn, Cascade 220, a 100% pure wool. 

Plaits and Links

As for sewing, I have made capris, a blouse, a jacket, and am currently working on a cotton shirtdress. However, I find as so many others do, that if you blog, that is less time for sewing.  And I would rather be sewing.  TTFN.